Oris Big Crown ProPilot Chronograph GMT-Uhr Hands-On

Neu für 2014 von Oris ist die Big Crown ProPilot Kollektion von Uhren. Die Big Crown ist eine bestehende beliebte Modellfamilie aus der Schweizer Marke und der Big Crown ProPilot fügt eine neue Serie zu ihrer bereits ziemlich guten Sammlung von Pilotenuhren hinzu. Kann nicht genug Fliegeruhren haben? Heute werde ich das aktuelle Flaggschiff in der Big Crown ProPilot Kollektion anschauen, dem Oris Big Crown ProPilot Chronographen GMT Uhrenmodelset (Ref. 677 7699 4164).
Insgesamt hat die Oris Big Crown ProPilot Uhrenkollektion drei Modelltypen (jeweils auf einem Metallarmband oder Textilband). Es gibt eine kleinere 41mm breite Drei-Hand Oris Big Crown ProPilot Datum, die 45mm breite Oris Big Crown ProPilot Tag Datum, und diese 44mm breite Oris Big Crown ProPilot Chronograph GMT. Jeder ist ziemlich atemberaubend in seinem eigenen Recht, vor allem als eine ernsthafte suchen Werkzeug zu sehen.


Was ist neu für Oris über die Big Crown ProPilot Uhren? In gewissem Sinne ist die Big Crown ProPilot-Kollektion ein moderneres auf der mehr Vintage-themed Big Crown Sammlung von Pilot-Uhren. Während jede dieser Uhren für den gleichen Zweck gedacht ist, wird der ProPilot eine andere Zifferblatt, Fall und Mobilteil haben. Um ehrlich zu sein, ist es schwierig zu wählen, was besser ist, weil keiner ist. Es ist nur eine Frage des Geschmacks. Um die Dinge ein wenig komplexer zu machen gibt es bereits die modern aussehende Oris BC3 und BC4 Sammlung von Pilotenuhren.
Jeder der Oris Big Crown ProPilot Uhren hat eine große aussehende Stahlgehäuse mit einer Art Rändel-Stil Lünette und passenden Caseback Lünette (was würden Sie nennen diese Textur?). Die Zifferblätter sind schön funktional, und ich kann leicht sagen, dass sie so attraktiv sind, weil sie so utilitaristisch sind, mit ihren kontrastreichen Ziffern und dem Mangel an dekorativem Unsinn. Für die Big Crown ProPilot Chronograph GMT musste Oris mit vielen Informationen auf dem Zifferblatt zu kämpfen. Was sie taten, war klug, und sehr dünne Markierungen und Ziffern auf den Untertiteln halten die allgemeine Lesbarkeit sehr hoch.


Persönlich fand ich, dass die Uhr noch besser aussah als die Bilder. Oris macht mit ihren Piloten eine wirklich gute Arbeit, und diese "Big Crown Evolution" hilft, die Ästhetik in die Moderne zu tragen. Bei 44mm breit ist der Big Crown ProPilot Chronograph GMT eigentlich 1mm kleiner als das Day Date-Modell, aber meiner Meinung nach ist es die perfekte Größe. Das Gehäuse ist auch wasserdicht bis 100 Meter bei einer Falldicke von 15,50mm.
Über dem Zifferblatt ist ein doppelt gewölbtes Saphirglas mit AR-Beschichtung. Oris verwendet ein Mineralglas für das Gehäuse über die Bewegung, die hilft, ein wenig Kosten zu senken. Natürlich brauchte Oris natürlich auch eine "Big Crown". Es ist leicht zu greifen und solide, während es nicht zu groß ist. Ich mag eigentlich die einfachen Chronographen, die nicht zu weit ragen.
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Chronologia Trigalight R004 Dive Watch

I like tritium, so when the folks at Chronologia asked me to review their new Trigalight Dive Watch, I had to give it a go. Why tritium? Well for one thing, it's a fun word to say - kind of like a bird call. For another thing, it is impossible not to feel like a Bond villain when you are wearing tubes filled with radioactive gas. Finally, I like it because tritium will light up your watch face in a very cool, and very effective manner. 

Chronologia is a new watch company trying its fortunes on Kickstarter. Their background says they are a team of industry veterans and it shows. From the design and execution of this watch it is clear that this is not their first rodeo; however, the project is currently struggling to fund. The Trigalight Dive Watch is available in chronograph and three-hand versions. Both are rated for 20ATM/200M water resistance. They feature carbon fiber cases, screw down crowns, and a Swiss made quartz movements. Retail pricing will be €354 (@ $387 USD) for the three-hand and 468€ (@ $511 USD) for the chronograph, but early backers can pre-order for as low as €129/218 ($142/194 USD) The watch arrives in a zippered nylon case fitted with dense foam. A keyring/mini-flashlight is also included. 

My sample watch was an R004.5 three-hand with a grey dial, matte rose gold accents, and a Ronda 515 inside. The case is 46mm wide, 55mm long, and 15mm thick with even, matte black finish and hard angles at its four corners. It is quite light. Not flimsy, but comfortable. An eight-toothed, gold PVD crown flanked by blocky crown guards sits at 3 o'clock. It is broad, but not long, which also helps keep the Chronologia's footprint to a manageable size. The crown design is repeated in the embossed stainless steel case back. Up front, the watch wears a flat, sapphire-coated mineral crystal. A 90-click, unidirectional aluminum bezel mirrors the steep geometry of case, angling inward to the dial for a dished effect that also provides some additional protection for the crystal. It has a knurled edge, printed dive timer, and a luminous (but not tritium) pearl at top center. The action is decisive and it snaps smoothly. There is no wobble or back play. 

The Chronologia has a handsome face. A white date wheel peeks through at 3 o'clock. Granted, you really have little need for a date complication on a dive, but it is a concession to the fact that the watch will not always be used underwater. An angled, white-on-grey chapter index rings the dial. It is set with T25 Trigalight tubes at 12, 3, 6, and 9. The white sword hands are also set with tubes while the applied rose gold markers on the pebbled grey dial are treated with a conventional phosphorescent lume. This combination of different luminous material makes for a cool and colorful glow at night, and when the bright green glow of the light-charged lume ultimately fades, the tritium tubes burn on. Fully charged, the markers are a good complement to the tubes, but when they go dim, you are left with only six tubes, which really the bare minimum. On the one hand, I find it hard to complain about this. After all, I have reviewed plenty of watches that had no tritium tubes at all and I didn't criticize them for it. On the other hand, they were not billed as tritium watches. When you put "Trigalight" in your watch's name, it is going to raise expectations and in my mind, a tritium watch has a tube at every marker. The Chronologia's set up is more like a tritium back up, but it works. Overall, it is a sensible, legible layout. 

The strap is grey, diamond patterned silicone with a signed, matte gold buckle. It is soft, comfortable, and it even fit my 6.5" wrist with one adjustment hole to spare. The base ends fit around the central lugs and secure with screws. I would be perfectly happy with this strap, and that's a good thing because the mono-lug arrangement makes it all but impossible to fit anything other than a custom strap or a factory replacement. 

This is a larger watch than what I would normally consider, but once I put it on, I discovered it was not the behemoth I had expected. This due in large part to the lug design. Unlike the two horn arrangement on most watches, the Chronologia uses a single lug that is angled steeply downward, following the sheer planes of the case and positioning the strap almost straight down. This allows the strap to wrap your wrist without bulging outward first, making the watch appear shorter. I hate saying that a given watch wears like one size or another because there are so many design factors that affect our perception, but if I really had to, I'd say this is a 46mm watch that wears like a 44mm. Its lightweight construction and excellent strap placement make it very easy to wear, even for those of us with smaller wrists. 

At pre-order prices, the Chronologia Dive Watch is an easy recommendation, but it will be hard to justify at full retail where it faces a host of divers from established giants and micro brands alike. Even limiting its competition to other lightweight tritium tool watches, it must square off against Luminox, Traser, and Armourlite all of which meet or exceed its specs. The Chronologia has a lot going for it, I like the overall shape and the dial layout, and a little tritium is always a good thing. The carbon case and dive-worthy water resistance make it a good candidate for a weekend tool watch, but I'd hold the line at the Kickstarter early bird price. 

Pro: Attractive, well finished, 200m.

Con: Short on tritium tubes, proprietary strap.

Sum: A nice tool watch for the pre-order price, but hard to justify at full retail.

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